It’s no secret, the times, they are a changin’. Bob Dylan said it in the 60s. So it is now for Honolulu’s famed Chinatown district. It’s changing. People. Faces. Stores. Hang outs. Restaurants. The face of Chinatown reflects the face of Hawaii. It’s changing.

In some ways, the change is not welcome. There are fewer shops than in years past. Gone are the bicycles and matting crowds. Still, there are flowers, leis, produce, fish, and meat. But Chinatown’s merchants are no longer dominated by the Chinese or Chinese immigrants. In fact, they’re in the minority these days.

Today’s Honolulu Chinatown is as much Vietnamese, Koreans, Thai, Laotians, and Filipino. Chinatown, as in ages past, remains colorful, eclectic, and dynamic. But it’s not the Chinatown of the past.

How do you get to Chinatown in Honolulu? First, head to Downtown Honolulu from any direction. Walk toward the mountains and turn left. It’s hard to miss.

The open air Oahu Market awaits you. Crammed with tropical flowers, fresh fish and meats, local fruits and vegetables, hanging char siu, and noodles.

Chinatown runs from River Street on King Street to downtown, then toward the mountains past Beretania Street. There’s plenty of walking to do. That’ll work up an appetite. And that’ll get you to a local Chinese restaurant (unless you prefer Vietnamese, Japanese, Filipino, Korean, Thai, Laotian, Indian, or—McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Taco Bell).

A stop at Golden Palace Seafood Restaurant will bring you oriental delicacies served up the old fashioned way. On carts. The Chinese way.

As with many traditional Chinese dim sum restaurants, will serve up the day’s selections aboard carts wheeled right to your table. A selection of bamboo steamer baskets will display delicate dumplings (the food in the baskets, not the waitresses—pay attention), and other goodies, including, but not limited to spicy pork hash (you don’t want to know what part of the pig is in there—it’s part of the Chinatown “don’t ask, don’t tell” policy), scallops, crispy fried taro, and more.

Need a little culture to help with that meal? Cross King Street and head to the Yat Tung Chow Noodle Factory. Yummy. Here you can watch noodles being made. They roll out of a noodle machine (you were expecting a Wayback Machine or something?), get covered in flour and head toward the city’s Chinese restaurants, just blocks away.

Pros: Easy walking distance, Lively, vibrant, cultural diversity at it’s best. Better than the food court at the mall. Tasty delights from every Pacific culture.

Cons: This is not your father’s Chinatown. Heavily influenced by other Pacific Rim Cultures these days. Lots of Vietnamese restaurants, too.

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