Everyone knows this. The island of Oahu has been fully, completely oversurfed. Hundreds of thousands of surfers down through the years have scoured Oahu’s coastlines. There are very few, if any, surf spots that have not been surfed or are not being surfed regularly. Here’s a word or two on the best secret surf spots.

‘Secret’ is somewhat subjective. There’s not a spot on any of the surfing beaches in Hawaii that hasn’t been found by someone at some time. However, there are a few ‘empty lineups’ to be found, if you know where to look. These make up the majority of the ‘secret surf spots’ on each island.

Of course, access to the secret spot might be difficult. Often, there’s no parking nearby, or steep cliffs that fall directly into the surf—such as China Walls on Portlock.

Secret spots are sometimes fickle—no waves. Maybe that’s why no one’s there and they don’t come back. Nearly all secret spots get waves when the wave are up. You’ll need to invest the time to find the spot, and check out the surf in different wave conditions.

Other secret spots might be better than average with few boarders in the wave lineup, but are also known for a healthy contingent of predators (in the water, looking up your legs dangling from your surf board…a view that’s remarkably similar to a green sea turtle to a hungry shark with bad eyes.

Not far from Downtown Honolulu is a super secret surf spot. The waves are not what anyone would call ‘world class’ and you won’t find Andy Irons in the lineup—but when the South Shore surf is up a bit, these waves peel nicely, and there’s few people who know of it.

There’s another secret surf spot on the East Shore of Oahu where I occasionally boogieboard (‘bodyboard’ for those of you who don’t know how to ‘boogie’). The waves are almost always clean and sweet and I’ve never been there when more than half a dozen others were there. Usually, it’s me and a friend. Great waves. Perfect, hollow sandbar tubes in steady sets. Not much in the winter, but a summer swell will kick it up—while everyone else headed to Sandy’s or Makapuu.

OK, where are all these super secret surf spots?

Come on, I found ‘em. You can, too. If I told you, it wouldn’t be secret any more, would it?

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