The TV announcer blasts the “Hilo to Hanalei” news theme everynight, seven nights a week. Should you go to Hanalei just to see what it’s all about? In a word, yes. “Shock and awe,” it’s not. But Hanalei is cool.

Unless, of course, it’s raining. Then it’s just downright humid beyond belief. You caught me. OK, maybe Hanalei isn’t really a “shock and awe” of the Iraq war caliber. In Hawaii (which is the news that the local NBC announcer shouts out), Hanalei is more equated with farming and sedate lifestyle than anything else. In fact, all around scenic Hanalei Bay you’ll find some of the most fertile growing earth on, uh, well, the earth.

People have farmed at Hanalei for more than 1,000 years. Drive past the Princeville Shopping Center on the right and you’ll be able to view the magnificent Hanalei River which flows through a brilliant emerald green kalo loi—Hawaiian for flooded taro fields. It’s a breathtaking sight.

To the near West you’ll see a mountain ridge shrouded in mist and pouring forth waterfalls in gushes towards the valley below. Nestled behind all the spectacular scenery is the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. It’s so precious you can’t even go there unless you’re a wildlife refuge Ranger, or something.

Hanalei means “crescent bay”. The whole Hanalei area remains pretty much as it has for many decades due to a small, rusty, creaky one-lane Hanalei Bridge. It’s so small that only one vehicle at a time can cross. That limits traffic. It’s also so small that tour buses cannot cross. That limits the hustle and bustle that schedule tourism brings.

Hanalei Town is pretty much as you’d expect it to be. Quiet. Green. Neatly trimmed houses and lawns. Did I mention it was quiet?

Down the road is the Ching Young Village mall. Actually, it’s a mini-mall as there’s not much there by mainland mall standards. The “village” was founded by, you guessed it, Ching Young in 1896. They raised their 8 children in the area, bought a rice mill, some land, and opened a General Store.

Farther down Kuhio Highway is the graceful and elegant Waioli Huila Church, built in 1912. However, relative to the Waioli Mission House Museum, built in 1836, the Huila Church is almost new. The story of the Mission House is remarkable, to say the least. So, I’ll say the least. But point out that Lucy Wilcox, Abner Wilcox’ wife, gave birth to eight children in the main bedroom of the Mission Home.

Summary: Hanalei is a delight and pleasant excursion away from everything that’s city and touristy. Hanalei Bay is large and shallow and a good place to play. Nearby, 4,000 feet cliffs rise from behind luxuriously golden sand.

Pros: Easy to drive to Hanalei, many stops are pictueresque, far from the madding crowd.

Cons: Far from the madding crowd which is where most of the madding crowd wants to go.

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